Yankee Brew News April/May 2014 : Page 1
Harpoon's taproom Earth Eagle Brewings' taproom. PHOTO BY BETTY KAPLAN LR L-R: L R 7 7th hS h S Settlement l H Head d B Brewer Nate Sephton, 7th Settlement founder and manager David Boynton, 7th Settlement Assistant Brewer Josh Henry and One Love Head Brewer Michael Snyder. PHOTOS BY BETTY KAPLAN By Scott Kaplan th Settlement Brewery and One Love Brewery opened last November at 47 Washington St. in Dover, N.H., as New England’s first community supported cooperative brewing operation. This is not a contract operation by any stretch of the imagination — it’s two companies with different brewers operating out of the same brewhouse. 7th Settlement is the brewpub half of the business, founded by manager Dave Boynton and brewer Nate Sephton. Josh The Breweries Henry is the assistant brewer. One Love is the microbrewery half of the business, founded by brewer Michael Snyder and partner/assistant brewer Jennifer Riley. Each set of owners has a 50 percent share in the brewery and gets 50 percent of the brewing time. See Joined p. 7 E. Massachusetts ..........14 Boston ............................16 W. Massachusetts .........24 Maine ..............................26 New Hampshire .............28 Connecticut ....................30 Vermont ..........................32 Rhode Island ..................34 NYC/Long Island ............36 Upstate NY .....................38 Two Roads Brewing's taproom By Jordan Griffin h hroughout New England, brewery tasting rooms are transforming into taprooms. Visitors have a the option of ordering beyond sample tasting t sizes; some brewery taprooms even serve food, s closely resembling brewpubs. While legislation c differs state to state, a growing number of d breweries are opting for permits that allow b them to pour full pints. t See Taprooms p. 5 INSIDE Events Calendar....... 3 Alehouse .................. 9 Tasting Panel ......... 10 Homebrew .............. 12 Maps/Directory .. 18-23 S State by State News
Throughout New England, brewery tasting rooms are transforming into taprooms. Visitors have the option of ordering beyond sample tasting sizes; some brewery taprooms even serve food, closely resembling brewpubs. While legislation differs state to state, a growing number of breweries are opting for permits that allow them to pour full pints.<br /> <br /> Harpoon<br /> <br /> During construction of Harpoon Brewery's new tasting room in late 2012, owners Rich Doyle and Dan Kenary realized the law wouldn't allow customers to order full pints of beer. Working with local legal counsel, Harpoon's owners helped to clarify Massachusetts' Farm Brewers legislation.<br /> <br /> The Farmer Series Pouring permit, which became law in July 2013, allows brewery tasting rooms in the state to function more like taprooms; it allows them to sell full pints of beer as opposed to only four-ounce samples.<br /> <br /> At Harpoon, the roomy 5,000+square-foot taproom can hold 300 people, with most of them seated at tables and benches made from Vermont butternut trees.<br /> <br /> "The owners have always wanted a Germanstyle beer hall," said Eric McGowan, Harpoon's taproom bartender. "It's a gathering space for people to come and be social."<br /> <br /> Floor to ceiling windows frame the Boston skyline on one wall, while Plexiglas panels allow patrons to watch the kegging production line on another. A small kitchen serves three varieties of fresh pretzels. The not-so-secret dough recipe includes spent grain and IPA in place of water.<br /> <br /> Jack's Abby<br /> <br /> In Framingham, Mass., Jack's Abby Brewing began pouring pints in January. According to Sam Hendler, one of three brothers and co-owners of the brewery, the ability to pour full pints makes the 45-minute commute from Boston more worthwhile for visitors.<br /> <br /> Taproom bartender Josh Aldenberg said that a combination of both locals and out-of-towners visit the brewery.<br /> <br /> "Wednesday through Friday, it's mostly locals or people that work out here meeting up with coworkers for a beer," Aldenberg said. "Saturdays, it's all walks of life: young, old, college kids, families. It's definitely our busiest day of the week."<br /> <br /> The recently renovated 850-square-foot taproom features a bar with five stools, and bourbon barrels placed throughout the room act as table tops. An elbow-high side rail runs the perimeter of the room offering additional surface to rest a pint of beer. Aldenberg described the space as being warmed by the wood and copper accents throughout the room, reminiscent of European abbey-style pubs.<br /> <br /> Variations of the Farmer Series Pouring Permit<br /> <br /> Permits in New Hampshire, Connecticut and New York were introduced just within the last few years - a testament to the growing trend in brewery taprooms on the East Coast.<br /> <br /> With a Second Class License, the taproom at Long Trail Brewing in Bridgewater, Vt., has Been pouring pints since the 1990s. Although the taproom is impressive, Garrett Mead, Manager of Retail Operations at Long Trail and Otter Creek Brewing (Middlebury, Vt.), said the best vantage point is from the catwalk above the bottling line on brew day.<br /> <br /> "It's really a show," said Mead. "The guys are working, the bottling line is going. Kids go up there with their parents and get a bird's eye view of the whole place. We've definitely become a destination. In the summer, there's a deck with outdoor seating. In the winter, we have a heated tent next to the river and a fire pit. It's geared toward people who want to check out the brewery, but also for people who want to come and have lunch."<br /> <br /> Long Trail's kitchen is open 11 a.m.-7 p.m. daily and offers a menu of traditional pub fare. It's not a license requirement for the brewery to serve food, but Mead said offering it is "good hospitality."<br /> <br /> In Orono, Maine, Black Bear Brewing is working with a local business to supply its patrons with wood-fired pizza. Luckily, owner and brewer Tim Gallon has a good relationship with his pizza supplier and former employer, Bear Brew Pub.<br /> <br /> "I started at the Bear Brew Pub ten years ago as an alternating brewery proprietor," Gallon said. "Six years ago we moved the brewhouse and opened Black Bear Brewing. As it got more popular, people wanted a tasting room. People wanted to come here, sit and have pints."<br /> <br /> If a brewery in Maine wants to sell full pints on-site, it must apply for a Restaurant License. Essentially, the brewery's taproom could operate as a fully functioning restaurant; the requirements being that food is available and the brewery is entirely separate from the taproom. However, the only beer visitors will find at Gallon's taproom is Black Bear, pouring from eight taps.<br /> <br /> The taproom is a cozy, communal space complete with a 15-stool bar, five tables with chairs and a small stage for live music. Local bluegrass/ folk band Old Time Machine is considered the "house band" and plays on Thursday nights. The Bear Brew Pub, located around the corner from Black Bear, supplies the taproom with pizzas, which are sold at $1 a slice. The 10-barrel brewery creates one-off beers only available at the taproom and has a mug club with 40 members.<br /> <br /> Black Bear's regulars include students and professors from the nearby University of Maine. There's a pull-down projector screen in the taproom for whenever there's a Umaine hockey game on.<br /> <br /> Similar to the law in Maine, New Hampshire breweries can only sell full pints on-site if they also offer a food menu. The license is called a Nanobrewery/Restaurant Permit, and so far, Portsmouth-based Earth Eagle Brewery is the only brewery that has it.<br /> <br /> "You can only get our beer here. We don't have bar accounts and we're not in bottle shops," said Alex McDonald, co-owner and brewer at Earth Eagle. "The idea was, if we're selling everything on property, then why shouldn't we try to sell full pints? We're growing in the direction of being more of a brewpub."<br /> <br /> The two-barrel brewery obtained its license to sell food and full pints this past February.<br /> <br /> "We have an awesome synergy with restaurants around us," said McDonald.<br /> <br /> Popper's Artisanal Meats in nearby Dover, N. H., supplies hotdogs, brats, turkey breast, duck pastrami and various fermented vegetables for the brewery's kitchen. Chef Evan Mallet from Portsmouth's Black Trumpet Bistro makes soups and stews. Earth Eagle's sandwich menu is on par with some of the best restaurants in town.<br /> <br /> In Connecticut, pieces from two different licenses were combined to amend the state's full liquor license, and Broad Brook Brewing of East Windsor is one of the newest breweries pouring pints because of it.<br /> <br /> "It used to be either you were a manufacturer and could only give tastings, or you had a brewpub license and you had to have a liquor license and sell food," explained co-owner Eric Mance. "Now with a full liquor license, we can sell for on-premise consumption with or without food."<br /> <br /> Broad Brook opened in October 2013 and brews on a 15-barrel system. And although not required to serve food, several different restaurants cater with appetizers for "Thirsty Thursdays" when the brewery runs pint specials. Co-owner Tim Rossing said the taproom goes through roughly 40 barrels a month by way of a growler-filling machine and eight to ten rotating taps.<br /> <br /> Other breweries in Connecticut with the liquor license include Two Roads Brewing in Stratford, Half Full Brewery in Stamford and Firefly Hollow Brewing in Bristol.<br /> <br /> On the Eastern tip of Long Island, Greenport Harbor Brewing is one of several newly-licensed farm breweries in New York State. The Farm Brewer License, which went into effect in January 2013, is available to brewers who utilize at least 20 percent of New York-grown ingredients to be considered a Farm Brewer. Farm brewers can sell their product for on-site consumption.<br /> <br /> In addition to sourcing local ingredients, Greenport Harbor's co-founders John Liegey and Rich Vandenburgh are growing four acres of winter malting barley across the street from the brewery. About two months ago, they obtained a Farm Brewer's License and began serving full pints.<br /> <br /> "I don't think there's a better experience than having a beer at the place it's made," said Liegey. "And because we're small breweries, we're really all about that experience. It's nice to be able to offer it [pints]."<br /> <br /> The five-year-old brewery is preparing for an expansion, and Liegey said it will put them on course to produce 54,000 barrels annually. The taproom at the new space will be significantly larger, and there are plans to eventually build a kitchen.<br /> <br /> A Rhode Island Farm Brewer's License<br /> <br /> Senate Bill 2110 and companion House Bill 7718 aim to closely mimic Rhode Island's Farm Winery License, which allows for on-site sales and consumption. Matthew Richardson, co-owner of Rhode Island's first hop farm, Ocean State Hops, and brewer of the up-and-coming Tilted Barn Brewery, worked with Senator Dawson Hodgson to draft the bill.<br /> <br /> The bill is similar to New York's Farm Brewer's license and stipulates that for a brewery to qualify as a farm brewer, it has to utilize a percentage of ingredients from Rhode Island. However, the amount of arable land in the state is a fraction of what New York has, and as a result, the breweries that could qualify for the license would be nano in size.<br /> <br /> "With the percentage requirement, the size that the farm breweries would be able to be would be relatively small, which is what I think they want to be anyway," said Richardson. "You're not going to see 60-barrel breweries. It's going to be more like 10 to 15-barrels."<br /> <br /> Regardless, if the Farmer Brewer's bill passes, Tilted Barn Brewery is planning its debut this summer. The brewery will be housed in a barn built in the early 1900s and situated on Ocean State Hops farm. The brewhouse will occupy the first floor, and the tasting room and retail space will overlook the brewery. Brewery tours would begin in the hop fields.<br /> <br /> "The idea of the Farm Brewer's License is to promote agricultural enterprises and small businesses," said Senator Hodgson.<br /> <br /> On-site sales and consumption of beer not only provide the biggest profit margins, but brewers agree: a pint of beer is best enjoyed at its source.
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The Breweries <br /> <br /> 7th Settlement Brewery and One Love Brewery opened last November at 47 Washington St. in Dover, N.H., as New England’s first community supported cooperative brewing operation. This is not a contract operation by any stretch of the imagination — it’s two companies with different brewers operating out of the same brewhouse. 7th Settlement is the brewpub half of the business, founded by manager Dave Boynton and brewer Nate Sephton. Josh Henry is the assistant brewer. One Love is the microbrewery half of the business, founded by brewer Michael Snyder and partner/assistant brewer Jennifer Riley. Each set of owners has a 50 percent share in the brewery and gets 50 percent of the brewing time.<br /> <br /> The Beginnings <br /> <br /> Boynton, Sephton and Henry’s original plan was to open a community-supported brewery in Dover, but funding was proving to be a problem. Through a rather convoluted series of relationships between wives, friends and co-workers, Snyder caught wind of the project and approached Boynton with the idea of the cooperative brewery. The new partnership was the catalyst the team needed to form the joint operation. By the end of 2012 they had signed a lease for some long-vacant textile mill space near Dover’s Lower Square that historically manufactured wool and calico linens.<br /> <br /> 7th Settlement takes its name from the city of Dover itself, which was the seventh permanent settlement in what is now the state of New Hampshire. Snyder said the name One Love has grown to include all things wonderful, but has its basis in New Hampshire, his favorite place to live.<br /> <br /> The Brewers <br /> <br /> Henry, like most brewers, got his start in homebrewing ten years ago. His first beer was a brown ale called 7th Settlement First Batch Brown. Little did he know then that it would later become the name of the first beer brewed at the pub. He saved the seventh bottle of that original homebrew and cracked it open the day the pub’s first beer was brewed, which also happened to be a brown ale. “It tasted alright after ten years in the fridge,” he said.<br /> <br /> Sephton started as a homebrewer, as well, in 2006 when his father, also a homebrewer, got him into the hobby. He recalls his first homebrew was a Scottish ale from an extract kit. It didn’t take him long to make the jump to allgrain brewing.<br /> <br /> Snyder has a restaurant background, which he used as a transition to brewing; however, he too got his start in homebrewing, albeit at the tender age of 15. He bought his father a homebrew kit that ended up sitting idle, so Snyder used it himself. He has the Siebel Institute of Technology’s long course under his belt and has worked at Several breweries and brewpubs before settling on the seacoast. He even had a stint in a biotech company manufacturing probiotics, but “it wasn’t as fun as brewing,” he said. “Making beer is a lifestyle,” he added.<br /> <br /> The Hardware <br /> <br /> The brewhouse is actually closer to an eightbarrel system than seven. It didn’t make sense to cut down the full-sized sheet metal to make a seven- barrel system, which, if used whole, provided eight-barrel capacity. As a result, the fermenters have about 20-25 percent headspace for high kreusen. The brewery currently has only three fermenters and six serving tanks but there are plans to install four more serving tanks in the next 18 months. In the meantime, both operations share the tanks 50-50, and the ten remaining taps at the bar are filled with local craft beers. As the brewery expands, the guest taps will be thinned out and One Love beers may appear off-premise. All of the house taps are fed from serving tanks; there are no house beers kegged at this time. Snyder said, however, that his future plan is to have One Love beers available to a wider regional audience in one fashion or another. This may involve establishing a 30- to 50-barrel off-site brewery for outside sales. But for now, both companies are totally focused on the current location.<br /> <br /> The Philosophy of Local <br /> <br /> The team takes great pride in the local sourcing of materials, including Sephton and Henry themselves, who left their jobs at a general contractor to act as their own contractor and construction crew for the brewpub and brewery. Two wooden beams that were reclaimed from a renovation project in another section of the mill building were sliced up and became the bar top. It was estimated that the beams came from Trees that were saplings when Dover was settled in 1623. Internal windows used to separate the brewhouse from the restaurant area were reclaimed from yet another mill building across the street. Although some sections had to be reglazed, some frames still hold the original poured glass panels, complete with ripples and inclusions. Chalk boards in the restaurant came from a school in Gloucester, Mass. The long community tables are made of trees harvested from Lee, N.H. Much of the ironwork throughout the pub came from Russel Pope’s Elements of Steel in Newmarket, N.H., including the large seven-shaped front door handle and unique hop vine hinges. The Mug Club’s mugs are custom hand-thrown salt-glazed pottery from Salmon Falls Stoneware in Dover. Even the brewhouse was made in Maine with U.S. steel.<br /> <br /> The philosophy of local continues in the kitchen. Boynton described Executive Chef Brent Hazelbaker and Sous Chef Taylor Miller as “fanaticals.” The two worked together for years as a team at the now-closed Green Monkey in Portsmouth, N.H., before coming to 7th Settlement. Together they strive for as many farm-to-table ingredients they can get. They currently work with over 40 local farms and fishing vessels to bring in the freshest meats, fish and produce. Just about everything that comes out of the kitchen is made in-house, including the breads and the ketchup.<br /> <br /> The Kitchen <br /> <br /> Hazelbaker is classically French trained, with Italian techniques. His menu is progressive American pub fare with a focus on sustainability. Beer and brewing ingredients play a large role in the kitchen. Hop flavored salt is used on the French fries. Spent grains and brewers’ yeast are used in breads. Fresh wort from the mash tun is used to cook with and used as a sugar source to feed the yeast in the flatbreads. The standard Menu is expected to change seasonally, and there is an additional “chalkboard menu” which reflects more frequent — even daily — changes in locally available ingredients.<br /> <br /> The Happenings <br /> <br /> Both companies are committing to cask-conditioned ales. One Love has a Firkin Friday on the first Friday of the month, and 7th Settlement has its own on the third Friday of the month. At 4 p.m. on these Fridays, the brewers set the firkin du jour into a custom-made mahogany cradle and place it on the bar before hammering in an antique brass tap. On Sundays, ten percent of profits are donated to local charities. Sunday through Thursday, beers are $4 before 4 p.m. Tuesdays are Community Cash days where customers receive 25 percent off their bills if they pay in cash or use Dover Dollars. Wednesday is trivia night.<br /> <br /> 7th Settlement Brewery/One Love Brewery, 47 Washington St., Dover, N.H. 03820, 603-373- 1001 — Hours: Tue-Wed noon-11 p.m.; Thu-Fri noon-midnight; Sat 11 a.m.-midnight; Sun 11 a. m.-10 p.m.
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